Never held a hook? Perfect. This guide takes you from a ball of yarn to your very first blanket, one small step at a time. Go slowly, and don’t worry about mistakes. Every crocheter has pulled out a row (or ten). It’s part of learning, and yarn forgives everything.
What you’ll need
You only need a few simple things to start:
- A 5.5 mm (I-9) crochet hook. It’s a comfortable middle size, and it matches the yarn below.
- Worsted weight yarn (weight 4, sometimes labeled “medium”). Pick a smooth yarn in a light color: it’s much easier to see your stitches. Save fuzzy, dark or textured yarns for later.
- Scissors.
- A yarn needle. It’s a blunt needle with a big eye, used to weave in the yarn tails at the end.
- Stitch markers. Bobby pins or small safety pins work just as well.
Tip: check the yarn label. It shows the yarn weight and the recommended hook size, so you’ll always know which hook to grab.
Holding the hook and yarn
There are two common ways to hold a hook. With the pencil grip, you hold it like a pen. With the knife grip, you hold it like a knife, with your hand over the top. Neither one is “right.” Try both and keep the one that feels natural.
Your other hand holds the yarn. Drape the yarn over your index finger and let it run loosely through your other fingers. This controls your tension, meaning how easily the yarn flows. If your stitches are so tight the hook won’t go in, relax your grip. If they look loose and floppy, hold the yarn a little more firmly. Even tension comes with practice, so don’t worry if it takes a few tries.
Left-handed? Everything works exactly the same, just mirrored.
The slip knot and the chain
Almost every project starts with a slip knot and a row of chains.
The slip knot:
- Leave a tail of about 6 in (15 cm).
- Make a loop by crossing the yarn over itself.
- Reach through the loop with your hook, catch the working yarn (the strand attached to the ball) and pull it through.
- Gently pull both ends to snug the knot onto your hook: snug, but not tight.
The chain:
- Wrap the yarn over your hook from back to front. This is called a yarn over.
- Pull the yarn through the loop on your hook. That’s one chain.
- Repeat until you have the number of chains you need.
When you count chains, don’t count the slip knot or the loop on your hook. For a closer look, see the chain in the Stitch Library.
Your first rows
Before starting a blanket, make a small practice square in single crochet. It’s the best way to get comfortable.
- Chain 16.
- Row 1: Single crochet in the 2nd chain from the hook and in each chain across. Turn. (15 sc)
- Row 2: Chain 1 (it does not count as a stitch), single crochet in each stitch across. Turn. (15 sc)
- Repeat Row 2 until your square is about as tall as it is wide.
Not sure how to make a single crochet? It’s explained step by step in the Stitch Library.
A few tips that make a big difference:
- Work under both loops. The top of each stitch looks like a little sideways V. Unless a pattern says otherwise, slide your hook under both strands of the V.
- Mark your edges. Place a stitch marker in the first and last stitch of each row. It’s the easiest way not to miss them.
- Count every row. If your edges start to slant or wave, you’ve probably skipped or added a stitch. Counting catches it right away.
Reading a pattern
Patterns use short abbreviations. Here are the ones you’ll see most:
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- st(s): stitch(es)
- yo: yarn over
- sk: skip
- rep: repeat
US or UK terms? The same names mean different stitches in the US and the UK. A US single crochet is called a “double crochet” in the UK, a US half double crochet is a “half treble,” and a US double crochet is a “treble.” Every pattern on this site uses US crochet terms.
A few more things to know:
- * (asterisk): repeat the steps after the asterisk as many times as the pattern tells you.
- ( ) or [ ]: a group of steps worked together, either in the same stitch or repeated the number of times given.
- A number in parentheses at the end of a row, like (15 sc), is your stitch count. Check it before moving on.
- Turn: flip your work over so you can crochet back across the row.
Gauge tells you how many stitches and rows fit in 4 in (10 cm). For a blanket, being slightly off isn’t a disaster, but it changes the finished size and how much yarn you’ll use. If your swatch has more stitches than the pattern, try a bigger hook. If it has fewer, try a smaller hook.
Your first blanket
You’re ready! For a first blanket, keep it simple:
- Choose a small size, like a baby blanket or a lap throw.
- Stick to one stitch, single crochet or half double crochet, in worsted weight yarn with your 5.5 mm hook.
- Count your stitches on every row for the first several rows, until the rhythm feels natural.
- Changing colors? Work the last stitch of the row until the final yarn over, then pull the new color through. Your stripes will start cleanly on the next row.
- Weave in your ends. Thread each yarn tail onto your yarn needle, weave it through the back of your stitches for about 2 to 3 in, changing direction once or twice, then trim.
- Add a simple border if you like: one round of single crochet all around, with 3 single crochet in each corner.
- Blocking is optional. Wash the blanket following the yarn label and let it dry flat. It helps even out the stitches.
When you’re ready, browse the pattern library and pick a Beginner pattern. You’ve got this!